Books To Live By

Cookbooks that is.  I learned the value of reading great cookbooks from just about every chef I worked for.  Trotter wanted to know what his cooks were reading.  Kahan had a great library.  Bowles had read everything and had tossed them away to take what he had learned and make it his own.  Christian Eckmann had a great collection of books by European chefs.

But Jared Van Camp, my line mate at Blackbird and now chef at Old Town Social had an affinity for books that surpassed all others.  He gave me a copy of Culinary Artistry by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg that really helped me get a grasp on what worked together.  It is a rudimentary book that has only been trumped by the same author’s newest tome, The Flavor Bible.  I bought it when it debuted and have cooks and servers alike grabbing it from the bookshelf in the kitchen every day.

So here at the end of the year, when the “best of” lists saturate daily candy and front pages, I decided to come up with the books that I come back to regardless of the season or situation.

In no particular order:

The Flavor Bible, by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg:  Everything you need to know about traditional flavors, seasonality and great insight on ingredients from some wonderful chefs.

On Food And Cooking, by Harold McGee:  Over-the-top culinary reference book by a true scientist.  If you want to know its origin, why it happens or the emulsion power of an egg yolk, this is your bible.

Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing, by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn:  Great beginners guide to all things listed in the title.  Some nice sketches help the novice see how to do it, bu the explanations of a great writer and master chef hold the torch here.

Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind The Craft of Everyday Cooking, by Michael Ruhlman:  This changed how I look at recipes.  While not the say all, end all, this book simplifies some things – especially pastry – that unfortunately aren’t always absorbed by young chefs.

The Thomas Keller Collection:  He’s got a book for home cooks, professional cooks and ones just to show what badasses he and his crew are.  Follow the leader.  If you don’t believe me ask anyone else who cooks for a living.

Cookwise: The Secrets of Cooking Revealed, by Shirley O. Corriher:  A southern belle meets Harold McGee.  Her “Touch of Grace” Biscuits rival any flaky ones I’ve ever had, but it’s her description of the science behind how we cook that makes this invaluable.  This works for pros and novices alike because it’s easy to read, and more importantly understand.

Bras, by Michel Bras:  Picked this one up in Paris about 8 years ago and I’ve never been so humbled by one persons skill and vision through pictures.  I can’t read much of it, but words can’t describe this guy or his food.

Cooking By Hand, by Paul Bertolli:  Amazing collection of personal experiences and essays that illustrate the essence of one of America’s finest culinary craftsmen.  His recipes are not for the weak, but what master’s work is?

The Gift of Southern Cooking, by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock:  An assortment of traditional southern recipes, many extracted from over a hundred years of colonial era cookbooks.  Lewis was the matriarch of Southern cuisine and Peacock brings it to the modern table.  The desserts are terrific.

A Day At elBulli: An Insight Into The Ideas, Methods and Creativity of Ferran Adria, Ferran Adria, Albert Adria and Juli Soler:  While the recipes are incredible and show just how genius these guys are, the real standout points in this book are the illustrations of just how much goes into the daily routine of the greatest restaurant.  I’ve never been to elBulli, but I feel like I have now after reading this book.  Stellar photos, brilliant insight and one of the most captivating single quotes I’ve ever heard:

“Creativity means not copying” – Jacques Maximin, 1987